Dining, Island-Style on St. Thomas

Whether fancy or humble, island restaurants satisfy with flair.

Steve Simonsen

For some the lure is yellowtail snapper in lime sauce snuggled up to a mound of tomato-tinged creole rice. Others go for gourmet, such as grilled monkfish in two-colored capsicum sauce, or casual, with a cheeseburger. And you can frequently find lobster - fresh-from-the-ocean spiny lobster grilled with garlic butter, or stuffed and baked. Whatever your whim, St. Thomas' restaurants serve it up splendidly.

You can dine on a satisfying meal, fancy or simple, at a variety of locations on St. Thomas. Many restaurants are packed into shopping-dominated Charlotte Amalie, others reside within resort hotels, and yet more are located in scenic spots - often in historically interesting buildings - scattered throughout the island. Former warehouses, hillside castles and centuries-old farmhouses now serve as backdrop for the talents of local chefs.

After shopping, visitors can celebrate their great purchases in one of the restaurants tucked within the passages and alleys of Charlotte Amalie's historic district. Several eateries feature West Indian foods, others international cuisines. Just over the hill is Northside, where St. Thomians dining in casual restaurants sporting "down island" views talk about the fish that are running.

Frenchtown, a waterfront quarter near Charlotte Amalie, reflects the old-time ways of fishermen descending from 17th-century St. Barts settlers. In this one-of-a-kind neighborhood, you can sup in open-air restaurants, fine-dining establishments, a bistro, a wine bar or one of the dockside taverns. A few more water-view restaurants are located around the corner in Crown Bay. These are popular with fun-loving locals and boaters.

In Red Hook, in and near the American Yacht Harbor, you'll find nuthin'-fancy restaurants as high as three flights above ground level. You can indulge in quesadillas while lounging around a rectangular bar or feast on a plateful of fresh fish while taking in the doings of fishermen, sailors and yachtsmen.

For beachside dining, head to oceanfront hotels and condos, where serene restaurants overlook the sea. You'll be treated to views of bays and outlying islands, ships coming in by day and stars illuminating the hills and seashore by night.

For after-hours fun, hit one of the island's nightspots. Frenchtown has a late-night club and wine bar. Downtown Charlotte Amalie has a number of waterfront clubs. In the Havensight area, clubs rock with late-night bands.

Fish Tales

By Lynda Lohr

Steve Simonsen

The USVI's plentiful waters provide a bounty of seafood. Expect to find these specialties on your dinner plate.

Lobster. Unlike its northern cousin, the Maine lobster, Caribbean lobster has a scrawnier look and comes clawless. It's usually served fresh from the sea, its sweet meat often enhanced by a simple drizzle of butter.

Conch. Conch is a mollusk that lives in a beautiful shell. Locals tend to eat the meat served in butter sauce, but restaurants generally offer it in the form of fritters. Chefs tenderize the conch and mince it, adding their own special spices and batter before deep-frying the patties or balls into golden gems.

Grouper. A fish that swims in warm waters, grouper on the dinner table is fresh and flaky, with a texture as enjoyable as its flavor. It's frequently served simply with a wine sauce.

Mahi-mahi. Mahi-mahi, also known as dorado, is a kind of dolphin - no, not the Flipper variety, which is a marine mammal rather than a fish. It's steaky, firm with a mild flavor, and often comes grilled or seared.

Tuna. Tuna, especially yellowfin, is a staple on USVI menus. You may find it grilled and bathed in a light lime sauce, or seared with a spicy coating.