St. John: A dazzling destination

Funky, friendly and idyllically bejeweled with stunning waters, St. John enchants nature lovers - and travelers seeking high-end amenities.

By Lynda Lohr

Nature reigns on St. John

, home to Virgin Islands National Park. Yes, you can enjoy delightful seafood dinners out, shop for artsy knick-knacks and explore a handful of interesting and scenic historical sites — but most visitors come for the sun, the sand and the sea.

Spend the day on the beach cooled by gentle breezes, getting out of your lounge chair for a leisurely swim in the warm and pristine water. Look through your snorkel or scuba mask at the colorful undersea world that surrounds St. John. Take an easy hike up into the verdant hills. Drive around the island on your own or with a taxi tour. Sign on with a water-sports company for a day sail, diving adventure or kayaking trip.

Just 20 square miles, St. John is easy to reach from St. Thomas — short ferry rides from Red Hook or Charlotte Amalie bring you to Cruz Bay, St. John’s main town. You’ll find boutiques, restaurants, taxis and several car rental agencies located just a short walk from the dock. Paved roads connect Cruz Bay to most of the bays and beaches, and to the town of Coral Bay, an easy-going village on the eastern end of the island.

Virgin Islands National Park

Three-fifths of St. John is a national park. The park was created in 1956 after philanthropist Laurance S. Rockefeller and others donated land. More acreage has since been added. The park protects intact ecosystems and limits commercial and residential development. Many of the island’s best beaches are strung out along the North Shore Road, which wends its way through the park.

Make the Virgin Islands National Park Visitors Center (340-776-6201) your first stop. It’s located in Cruz Bay at an area called the Creek near the start of the North Shore Road. The center offers exhibits, a park video, brochures, maps and books. Rangers can help you plan your visit, which may include hikes, historical tours, snorkeling, craft demonstrations and evening campground programs.
Nature takes the spotlight. The park is filled with more than 1,000 varieties of plants, including bay rum trees, mahogany forests, fruit trees like mango, papaya, genip and plantain, and at least 20 types of orchids. The trees, swamps and shores host more than 100 bird species, such as bananaquits, magnificent frigate birds and Caribbean hummingbirds.

Perhaps the best way to discover the park is to hike it. Twenty-one self-guided trails wind over hills and through valleys.

REEF BAY TRAIL The Reef Bay Trail extends 2.1 miles from Centerline Road to Reef Bay Valley, ending at the Reef Bay sugar mill ruins near Genti Bay’s beach. Preservationists have partially restored the old enterprise — which was active until 1916 — to give visitors an idea of what old steam-powered factories looked like. Roundtrip hiking time is three to five hours. A ranger-guided hike is offered several days a week. Take the shuttle bus from the park’s visitor center to the trailhead on Centerline Road. A boat will pick you up at the beach for the return trip to Cruz Bay. The charge is $21. Call or visit the park’s visitor center for reservations.